Bier Markt

May 25, 2008 10:58:23
http://apps.clevelandepicure.com/blog/?e=9816&d=05/25/2008&s=A%20Tale%20of%20Two%20Meals

Posted By Cleveland Epicure

When my sister comes to visit, we ramp up the food and drink adventures, as hard as that might be to believe. While we ventured to many places this weekend, two were in the more expensive category: Light Bistro and Bar Cento.

Last year I selected Light Bistro as my Favorite Expensive Meal of 2007. Mrs. Ep and I had quite the meal there, so we expected much of the same this time around. I was in a word, disappointed. We went on a Friday night and it was fairly busy, although not overly so. It took a good five mintues for anyone to get to our table, which is way too long. Our waiter tried to be a bit too laid back and cool and when he found out Sister Ep is from Chicago, he tried to be overly knowlegeable about the Windy City, which he prefers to NYC, calling Chi-town a “polished apple.” Give me a break.

But the food is where I was most disappointed in Light Bistro. Starting with the end of the meal, the chocolate creme brulee had absolutely no torched sugary crust to crack into on top; it was just cold pudding. The ladies got coffee and the tiny creamer held skim milk. There is a reason it is called a creamer for God’s sake. The chorizo and cornbread stuffed quail was a highlight, as was the ostrich main course, which Sis Ep loved. My flatiron steak was overcooked and too tough and the foie gras appetizer had a piece of foie gras that must have come from a really small goose, because it was tiny. The chopped salad was decent and the cod entree was inventive on a white bean puree with a good zing to it. Our bill before tip was $193.00 even though Mrs. Epicure drank only water.

Contrast this with our trip to Bar Cento, which any EDR reader knows is my favorite restaurant. There are reasons for this, and they start with the Chef. Johnathan Sawyer was at our table no fewer than six times. He introduced himself to everyone. He sent complimentary food to our table. He explained what was new, good, or in limited supply on the menu. I am not saying I expect a chef to visit my table in every restaurant I go to, nor do I expect free food, but an attitude like this from the chef pervades the staff who stick with him.

Mrs. Ep, Sister Ep, and I went to dinner with BFFs M&J and T too. We had excellent service from Aren, as always, and great food. The quadratini with lamb and honey was so good that I ate some of the shared plate and then ordered my own too. The relatives each got the brick-oven half-chicken, which was juicy, crisp and seasoned nicely. The whole grilled peas are always a treat, and Mrs. Ep’s tomato, onion and mint salad was so fresh and simple that I could have eaten a giant bowl of it. I enjoyed the mussels steamed in Duvel (although my fave is still at the Old Angle). Pizza, ravioli and antipasto were all well received too.

The house white wine, at $15.00 a bottle, is an absolute steal, and when you get it to go, it (like all of their wines) is 1/2 price, a shocking deal. You also get access to all of the Bier Markt beers, which must certainly be one of the best selections of quality beer in the USA. (BTW, I see McNulty’s is adding a Corner Bar to their front room, which I think it a great idea and will add a higher comfort level to that room).

We ended our meal with the ice cream sampler, which is 8 flavors of Jeni’s ice cream out of Columbus. These included ice creams, sorbets, and frozen yogurt. Flavors included coffee, salted caramel, mango, Thai chili (with coconut and peanut flavors too), and a pistachio that was just out of this world.

All of this for $173 for six people. Best deal and best meal in Cleveland. Thanks Chef Sawyer. We are lucky to have you here.

Cleveland Magazine
Issue Date: May 2008 Issue

At the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, Jonathon Sawyer watched his fellow students throw ingredients together, just to show they could.Not his style.

“I like flavor in the simplest way possible, let the flavors of the food showcase themselves,” he explains. “I’m not the type of cook who will make 45 things just to show you I can. In fact, most of the items on the menu have six items or less.” He’s following in the footsteps of mentors such as Michael Symon and Charlie Palmer, both minimalists at heart.

The Bar Cento kitchen plows through about 25 pounds of fresh herbs a week, plus plenty of citrus and olive oil. Sawyer also admits he’s guilty of using a lot of pancetta and anchovies.

“We sneak [the anchovy] in,” he says. “It’s purely there for flavor. Most people don’t know how good it is or that it’s even in the dish, but they always seem to like what they’re eating. It’s a good backbone, adds a layer of flavor you don’t get anywhere else.”

A perfect example of Sawyer’s approach, and the one item that really matches his personal taste, is the caramelized fennel bulb.

“It’s a veggie that showcases itself well. Simple prep and execution,” he says, “something that doesn’t need a lot of work or stuff. This is the basic approach we take to everything.

“The fennel doesn’t come across very well on paper,” he adds. “Then someone tries it and they are like, ‘Wow, I’ve never had flavor like this before — I didn’t even realize I liked fennel.’ ”